Brick Lane Curry House and Dowel Quality Products, Inc.

Variety is the spice of life, and a variety of spices adds much to one's life! At Brick Lane Curry House, the rust-colored walls are literally painted with spices. The crispy papadums that start the meal are redolent of asafoetida, and rice is fragrant with cloves (and fried onions and parsley). Although I loved my dakshimi (southern) curry, a profusion of peas, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and golden raisins in a rich green coconut sauce, I could have lived on the paneer kulcha. This piping hot, buttery pita bread was stuffed with toasted sesame seeds, parsley and small melted bits of salty cheese.

Brick Lane is extremely vegetarian-friendly; meat is cooked with separate utensils, and independent local farms provide the veggies. The menu is very descriptive; one item is candidly listed as providing "more pain and sweat than flavor."

If you find that you've stuffed yourself as full as the kulcha, head around the corner to Dowel Quality Products, Inc., for a bottle of fennel seeds to improve your digestion. While you're there, you can buy Pakistani rose petal preserves, a rainbow of red, white, green and yellow split peas, preserved lemons and every spice you can think of. But if you seek peace, love, money or a special heart's desire, purchase one of the candles in the shape of human figures. According to the folks at Dowel, a green figurine brings prosperity and a black figurine will grant you that special wish. But if you wish for a nice spicy curry, you don't have to indulge in any fancy rituals: just go to Brick Lane Curry House!

Brick Lane Curry House: 342 E. 6th St., (212) 979-2900. Dowel Quality Products, Inc: 91 1st Ave., (212) 979-6045.